Black sesame sweet soup (芝麻糊)
zhi ma hu (芝麻糊)
A warm, silky dessert of ground black sesame, gently sweet and deeply nourishing. A comforting way to take one of the confinement kitchen’s key ingredients.
Not every nourishing thing has to be a soup or a braise. Black sesame sweet soup is a dessert, warm and silky and gently sweet, and it happens to be one of the nicest ways to take an ingredient the confinement kitchen leans on constantly.
Why this dish
Black sesame runs right through the month, as the oil in the signature chicken dishes and as the seed here. The tradition treats it as nourishing to the blood and to the liver and kidneys, and famously as good for the hair. As a warm evening sweet, it delivers that quietly, with none of the effort of the savoury dishes.
Toast, then grind
The single step that makes it is toasting the seeds before you grind them. Raw sesame gives a flat, slightly bitter result; toasted sesame gives the deep, nutty flavour the dessert is loved for. Watch the pan, stir, and pull them off as soon as they smell fragrant and start to pop.
For more on this ingredient, see our spotlight on black sesame oil.
The recipe
- Prep
- 10 min
- Cook
- 15 min
- Total
- 25 min
- Serves
- 2 to 3 bowls
Why this ingredient
Black sesame (黑芝麻)
Black sesame is one of the cornerstones of the confinement kitchen, valued in the tradition as nourishing to the blood and to the liver and kidneys, and famously associated with strengthening the hair. It appears as the oil in the month’s signature dishes and as the seed in this dessert, which is one of the most pleasant ways to take it. Toasting the seeds before grinding is what unlocks the deep, nutty flavour.
Ingredients
- 100 g black sesame seeds The heart of the dessert. Toasting them first deepens the flavour enormously.
- 30 g rice, soaked, or 2 tablespoons rice flour A little rice gives the smooth, thick body; it is what turns it from a drink to a soup.
- 600 ml water Adjust for a thinner or thicker result.
- 2 to 3 tablespoons sugar, or rock sugar Sweeten to taste; the sesame should still come through.
- A small pinch of salt Balances and lifts the sweetness.
Method
- 1 Toast the black sesame seeds in a dry pan over medium heat for a few minutes, stirring, until fragrant and beginning to pop. Do not let them burn, or they turn bitter.
- 2 Blend the toasted sesame with the soaked rice and about half the water to a fine, smooth paste.
- 3 Pour the paste through a sieve into a pot for the silkiest result, or leave it as is for a more rustic texture, adding the remaining water.
- 4 Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, for 8 to 10 minutes until thickened and glossy. Constant stirring stops it catching and turning lumpy.
- 5 Sweeten with sugar and add the pinch of salt, stir until dissolved, and serve warm.
Notes and substitutions
- A good instant black sesame powder makes this in two minutes; whisk it into hot water. It is a fine shortcut for a tired week.
- It thickens as it cools, so loosen with a little hot water when reheating.
- A splash of warm milk or coconut milk stirred in makes it richer, if you like.
Before you cook this
- A sweet dish, so keep the sugar moderate, particularly if you are watching blood sugar. The sesame itself is the nourishing part.
Common questions
Why is black sesame eaten during confinement?
The tradition classes black sesame as nourishing to the blood and to the liver and kidneys, and it is one of the most-used ingredients of the month, as both oil and seed. This dessert is simply one of the most enjoyable ways to include it.
Can I use a shortcut?
Yes. A good-quality instant black sesame powder, whisked into hot water, makes a very passable version in a couple of minutes, which is welcome when there is no time. Making it from toasted seeds gives a deeper flavour when you can.
Is it warming?
Served warm, it fits the month’s preference for warm food, and black sesame is considered nourishing rather than cooling. It is best enjoyed warm rather than chilled, like most confinement dishes.